Help And Advice

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• It's winter - How to balance your radiators?
• How to Bleed a Radiator?
• Home Safety - What is Carbon Monoxide?
• Tools & Tips - What tools do I need?
• How to keep your paint roller clean while painting?
• How to remove dead flies on newly painted surfaces?
• Hair’s coming out of the Brush?
• How to prevent paint wrinkling?
• How to stop paint skinning?
• Dealing with left over paint?
• Removing dents in Wood quickly?
• Painting a new House?
• Can I repaint the ceramic wall tiles in my Kitchen?
• Removing Rust stains on concrete?
• Wallpaper Tips
• How to remove Mildew and or Mould?
• Removing Stains caused by a leaking water tank?
• How to change the colour of my PVC windows?
• How to Remove Wood pigment stains?
• General Filler sanding Tips
• How to Paint Greasy walls and ceilings?
• Should I use Strippers or a blowtorch?
• Is that wet wall Damp or is it Condensation? How do I know?
• Can I repaint the ceramic wall tiles in my kitchen?
• I have loads of decorating to do, but I hate the smell of paint, any ideas?
• How to transform dreary kitchen presses, wardrobes or tiles on a shoestring budget?
• My Garden Furniture is fading. What Can I do?
• Buying a Greenhouse? Buying guide
• What is ESP Primer – How do I use it?
• How to Replace a Fuse
• Power Tools – Different Types
• Explaining Electric Cookers
• How to Fit a Letterplate?
• How to Loosen a Sticking Door?
• How do I use a Heat gun?
• How to Build Panel Fencing
• How to Lay Floor Cork Tiles and Parquet Flooring

 

Home Safety - What is Carbon Monoxide?

• Carbon Monoxide Alarms
• Carbon Monoxide Detectors

 

Buy  Home Safety Products

 

Did You Know?

Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include headaches, tiredness, muscle pains, nausea and vomiting – all of which are easily misdiagnosed as flu!

Buy Carbon Monoxide Detectors

 

Frequently asked questions?

What is carbon monoxide?

Carbon monoxide is a colourless, tasteless, odourless gas.

How is it produced?

The gas is produced when any fossil burning fuel does not burn efficiently.

It can caused by inadequately maintained or badly fitted domestic heating appliances such as wall heaters, fires and boilers and cannot escape from the home if the flue of chimney has a blockage.

Does the carbon monoxide unit detect natural gas if the cooker is just switched on but not ignited?

No - a ‘standard’ carbon monoxide alarm will only detect poisonous carbon monoxide and not natural, household gas that may have leaked.

I have inserted the batteries, but the alarm is just making a screeching noise, why is that?

Please check that the batteries have been inserted correctly - the top and bottom battery need to have the polarity to the right and the middle one should go to the left.

How do the Carbon Monoxide alarm sensors work?

Carbon monoxide alarms use electrochemical sensor technology to sense the air every 15 - 20 seconds. Then, in accordance with BSI 50291 requirements, Kidde alarms meet the following response times;

• At 30 ppm, the unit must not alarm before 120 minutes
• At 50 ppm, the unit must alarm within 60 - 90 minutes
• At 100 ppm, the unit must alarm with 10 - 40 minutes
• At 300 ppm, the units must alarm within 3 minutes

CO alarms that meet different ‘requirements’ may meet slightly different response times.

 

Where should carbon monoxide alarms be located?

Kidde recommend that carbon monoxide alarms should be placed 1.5 metres from the floor providing it is not in dead air space (which is 34cms from any walls, corners or alcoves). Alarms must be at least 2 metres away from any heating appliance to prevent nuisance alarms.

 

How many carbon monoxide alarms should I have in the home?

Kidde recommend one alarm on each level of the home. However, if you are only purchasing one then it is best located near to sleeping areas as you need to be able to hear the alarm at night whilst you are sleeping and would not be otherwise aware of the effects of CO poisoning.

 

Why has the carbon monoxide alarm started to chirp?

Carbon monoxide alarms chirp for various reasons – usually it is because the batteries need changing. When the battery starts to run down you will find that it normally chirps in the early hours of the morning when it is coldest. This occurs when the temperature drops the voltage to the battery automatically drops and the carbon monoxide alarm goes into low battery mode whereby the unit will chirp. When the temperature rises the chirping should stop.

Smoke Alarms

Did You Know?

A working smoke alarm doubles a person’s chance of surviving a fire and can reduce fatalities by up to 90%

 

Where should I locate my smoke alarm?

It is recommend that each household have a smoke alarm at each level – one in the hallway and one at the top of the stairs. It would be even safer to have an additional one in each bedroom.

Where should smoke alarms not be fitted?

The locations to avoid when fitting any smoke alarms are as listed below

• In the garage as products of combustion are present when the car is started.
• In kitchens
• In front of forced air ducts used for heating and air conditioning, near ceiling fans or other high flow areas.
• In the peak of an ‘A’ frame type ceiling.
• In an area where the temperature may fall below 40F or rise above 100F.
• In dusty areas. Dust particles may cause nuisance alarm or failure to alarm.
• In very humid areas or near a bathroom. Moisture or steam can cause nuisance alarms.
• Near fluorescent lights. Electronic “noise” may cause nuisance alarms.

Buy Smoke Alarms

 

Fire Extinguishers

It may be possible to safely extinguish a small domestic fire yourself without taking unnecessary risks tackling a fire that is beyond your capabilities.

 

Please Click Here For our Range of Fire Extinguishers

Escape Ladders

Escape Ladders should be stored in sleeping areas where they are easily accessible. Kidde’s Emergency Escape Ladder can assist your escape from a building that may be on fire.

 

Please Click Here For our Range of Escape Ladders

Fire Blankets

Fire blankets are recommended for use in the kitchen - especially on fat pan fires. In most cases fire blankets can also be used to wrap around a person whose clothing is on fire

 

DIY Help

Here you'll find lots of free painting tips, wallpaper tips and handy painting products.

How to keep your paint roller clean while painting?

Before you load your paint roller tray with paint, wrap a plastic bag all around and over it, so that when you're finished painting or even changing colour, all you have to do is throw away the bag (safely) and your tray is spotless!

For our full range of Paint Rollers Please Click here

 

How to remove dead flies on newly painted surfaces?

Don't try and pick the flies out of the wet paint. Leave the paint to dry overnight and the flies can be wiped away with a damp cloth next day without leaving a trace.

 

Hair’s coming out of the Brush?

If you get a brush bristle in your paintwork, don’t try to pick it out with your fingers. Turn the brush and gently pick up the bristle with the very edge of the brush. Even very small bits of hair and bristle can be picked up in this way.

How to prevent paint wrinkling?

Paint Wrinkling is caused by applying a second coat before the first one is dry or applying in strong, bright, direct sunlight. Sand down until smooth and re-paint.

How to stop paint skinning?

A skin will always form on paint once the tin has been opened and the lid left off. This is more likely to happen with gloss finish paints, so before you re-close the can, pour a very small amount (about a tablespoon or less) of white spirit on the paint, just enough to cover the surface. This will prevent a skin forming for up to a week. You can also store the paint container upside down, first ensuring that the lid is properly (and tightly) fixed in place.

 

How do I deal with left over paint?

At the end of a job, and especially at the end of the exterior painting season, there’s always leftover paint to be concerned with. Ideally we would always buy exactly what we need for each job, but some excess products are almost unavoidable.

Rather than stack half-empty cans in a corner where they take up space, become useless, and may present a hazard, take care of them properly.

One idea is to pour emulsions into a cardboard box or bag, and add absorbent material such as sawdust, shredded newspaper or cat-box filler to speed drying. Recycle the empty can, and then throw away the dried paint with your normal rubbish.

Removing dents in Wood quickly?

To remove dents in wood, especially from a hammer, cover with a wet cloth and hold a warm iron on the dent. It’s remarkable how the dent disappears when the steam swells the fibres.

Painting a new House?

Can you give an estimate of how much paint would be required for a new house of approximately 1000sq feet?

Two coats of emulsion over all the walls and ceilings would be standard practice.

Your first coat of emulsion with 10% Floetrol emulsion paint conditioner mixed in does a very nice job at covering and getting a nice smooth finish.

Irrespective of what colours you choose for the various walls, you could paint them white on the first coat together with the ceilings to make it easy on yourself. You will find that the paint additive mentioned above will also make a huge difference when added to your second coat as well. Easier to do and looks better, no roller marks etc. Mask all edges you don’t want paint on for best results; 2 tape works pretty well. Use dustsheets on all floors to prevent mess.

 

Click here for our range of Dustsheets

Can I repaint the ceramic wall tiles in my Kitchen?

Yes you can. All you have to do is get yourself a one litre tin of a preparation product ESP which youve probably seen lauded on numerous home TV DIY shows, about 2.1/2 litres of each good quality oil based undercoat and gloss and a decent paint brush or small smooth roller and you are half way there.

For an extra special, smooth finish, pick up a litre tin of Owatrol oil as used by most of the professional decorators, (in the old days people used white spirits to thin the paint which was very detrimental to the paint quality and ruined hiding power) Owatrol oil will help the paint flow out beautifully without ugly brush marks or streaks. It also helps the paint adhesion, hiding power and gloss retention. Add about 20% Owatrol to the undercoat and about 10% to your top coat. About 60 or so should cover all the paint materials, which gives you an extremely cost effective colour change!

 

Click here for more information on ESP Primer

 

Removing Rust stains on concrete?

Next time you have to remove ugly rust stains from a concrete wall or stone, use NET-TROL, an environmentally friendly, oxalic based cleaner.

Ideal, where you have aerial brackets, balustrades, nails etc.

Wet surface completely, apply NET-TROL (dilute up to 4:1) Leave for Up to half an hour and rinse, or power wash off end of story

How to remove Mildew and or Mould?

Remove mildew with a 50:50 mix of bleach and warm water. Mildew needs moisture to survive, so identify and fix the moisture problem before redecorating.

A common cause of mildew is insufficient ventilation, bad insulation and or lack of heating. To prevent the mildew or mould coming back, just add a fungicidal paint additive like VC175 Mould Stop to subsequent paint coats to help prevent a return of the problem. This product is also very good on outdoor walls near trees and bushes.

Removing Stains caused by a leaking water tank?

This is a fairly easy problem to fix. All you need is to apply an appropriate stain blocker with a brush and finish off with a coat or two of paint. These stain blockers come in various types, generally water based, oil based or alcohol based. The best type for water stains is the alcohol type, and next best would be the oil based. Note that a water based stain blocker is no good on water borne stains but would work well on oily stains. Its almost like opposites work best.

 

I want to Change the colour of my PVC windows?

You can paint those PVC windows and doors any colour you like thanks to a clever product called ESP (short for easy surface prep)

We would suggest you choose an oil-based satin or gloss paint to do the job for maximum durability.

Wash the areas to be painted with warm water and sugar soap and allow to dry.

Now, to do the job all you have to do is get some clean lint free cloths, soak with ESP and wipe it all over the surfaces you wish to paint. Do one window at a time. Read the instructions carefully.

Leave the ESP to cure for about two hours, and then you are ready to apply your gloss or whatever.

In case you are unsure if the paint will stick, you will know as soon as you start to apply the paint, i.e. if the paint starts to crawl or run away from the brush you have not applied the ESP properly. If this happens, just wipe / wash off the paint in that area and re treat that area with ESP. On the other hand, if the paint goes on in the normal way, everything should be ok.

Another Tip to ensure you get a lovely smooth, brush-free finish is to add some Owatrol oil to the paint if it feels heavy. This will also help with paint adhesion.

 

Removing Wood pigment stains?

Some wood extracts, usually brown in colour, bleed through some paint finishes. Wash with soapy water, prime with a primer sealer like Aqualock and re-coat.

Filler sanding Tips

If you apply too much filler, it makes your job harder. After applying filler, smooth it off with a damp sponge or wet brush to remove the sharp edges. Some powder fillers (Polyfilla for example) and most ready-mixed fillers dry very hard so apply as smoothly as possible and save yourself the grief.

Painting Greasy walls and ceilings?

Painting kitchen areas can often be tricky due to all the greasy deposits all over the place. Paint as we all know will not stick to that, and one good solution is to wash thoroughly with sugar soap & warm water and allow this to dry prior to any painting.

Should I use Strippers or a blowtorch / HeatGun?

A Blowtorch is cheaper and very effective but it can be dangerous and it is not suitable in many cases. A Heat Gun / Hot air Gun is useful for small jobs where time is not important. Intricate detailed woodwork is best coated with a liquid or semi-paste chemical as burning can cause damage to fine detail. If wood gets a burn stain from a stripper, you can usually restore the natural colour very easily with Net-Trol Cleaner and Restorer.

Please Click Here for our range of Heat Guns.

 

 

Is that wet wall Damp or is it Condensation?

Not sure if your wall is letting in damp or if its condensation? Cut out about 20 square inches of household cooking silver foil and tape it to the wall with good masking tape or duct tape. If its damp coming in, the inside of the foil will gather drops of water after a time. If condensation it will remain dry on the inside. A good product to stop moisture or water coming through your wall is DRYLOK or Polycell Damp stain

I have loads of decorating to do, but I hate the smell of paint, any ideas?

Actually there is a clever little product from Australia of all places called Paint Odour Eliminator. It is an additive that you add in to your paint, just a few drops. The bottle has graduations to indicate the mix ratio for different kinds of paints, solvents etc. It works very well in gloss, varnish, cellulose, even two-pack floor paint which gives off quite a strong smell.

My Garden Furniture is fading. What Can I do?

My wooden garden chairs and table have faded terribly and look very dry, should I varnish them or is there another option. I never put anything on them since I bought them?

Some people like to simply leave garden chairs etc out there in the wind and rain and forget about them. Others treat them with the wrong finish resulting in the finish peeling off. Here are a few simple ideas to get your furniture looking lovely again.

Firstly, you need to get the wood cleaned up and its colour restored, pick up a new product out there called Net-Trol that is capable of doing this job really well. I use it to bring back the original look to faded wood and even fibreglass. It’s great also on faded teak windows or doors after first stripping with Nitromors

First you must wet the surface thoroughly and then apply the Net-Trol which can be diluted up to 4:1 ratio depending on how dirty or faded the deck is.

Leave it for about 20 minutes and then give it a quick light scrub with a stiff brush. (Follow instructions) Rinse off thoroughly with a hose, or better still a power washer at low to medium pressure.

When fully dry, your wood will be back to how it looked on day one, amazing but true! If you spot any rust present near screws etc, spot prime before going any further with a drop of called Owatrol oil and let dry.

 

ESP – The Painter’s Friend

ESP Makes Paint Stick to Shiny Surfaces Without Sanding or Mess.

ESP the No 1 Selling Primer for Shiny / Smooth Surfaces.

As seen on BBC's Changing Rooms.

Used by Thousands of Professional Painters For All Shiny Surface Preparation Work.

Over 500,000 satisfied DIY users in U.K and Ireland alone!

Working with ESP

Ideal for the following materials and finishes:

• Melamine
• Formica
• PVC
• Glass
• Tiles
• Old Varnish / Gloss
• Mirrors
• Stainless
• Brass
• Fibreglass

 

To purchase ESP Please click ESP Primer

ESP The number one primer

Instructions

Just clean the surface fully with warm water and sugar soap, allow to dry, wait 2 hours then paint.

ESP prepares non-porous surfaces for painting. Leaves a bonding film on the surface for paint to stick to. Ideal for priming Melamine, ceramic tiles, old paint & varnish, glass, aluminium, plastic & pvc and much more. Does not soften, remove or dull the old finish.

Having taken the TV Do It Yourself shows by storm, unique ESP primer has now become the primer of choice for tens of thousands of people who need to paint smooth shiny surfaces like Tiles, Glass, PVC, Aluminium, Melamine, Formica, Brass, Stainless, previously glossed, varnished surfaces, or powder coated surfaces.

To purchase ESP Please click ESP Primer

You can even apply varnish directly over old varnish, or gloss on top of gloss!

You can paint the fridge any colour, your kitchen cabinets, tiles etc can all be changed to a new colour for the price of a few tins of paint and one litre of ESP.

You can now paint your PVC windows, Gutters, Aluminium windows and doors any colour you desire… all by using ESP as your 'gripper coat'

 

 

 

 

 

Greenhouses – Buying Guide

How do I go about choosing a new greenhouse?

Good foundations for the greenhouse base

Choosing a Good Position for your Greenhouse

Understanding the standard dimensions of greenhouses

What are the most common greenhouse styles?

How do I maximise growing capacity?

Building and deciding on foundations for your new Greenhouse.

 

How do I go about choosing a new greenhouse?

In an ideal world, with plenty of space to site your new greenhouse and cost is not an issue, the growing capacity you require is likely to determine the size. Keen amateur gardeners may choose a small greenhouse (6 wide by 8 long), while gardeners who require a much bigger growing capacity might opt for a large greenhouse, for example 10 wide by 14 long.

However, choosing a greenhouse inevitably involves a trade-off between the growing capacity and the actual physical space you have in your garden to put it!

Our 3 most popular greenhouses are the 6' x 8',6' x 6',and the 6' x 4'

What practical tips can I follow?

Survey your garden

If you start by doing this first, you will quickly identify all the options you have for the best position for your new greenhouse. There are several main factors to bear in mind:

Best Position and aspect

Some recommend that a greenhouse should be positioned so that the ridge-line of the roof lies east to west to ensure that the longest side of the greenhouse will be fully exposed to the sun from the south. While there is an advantage in following this advice, particularly for long greenhouses such as 8' x 20', its important is not to overestimate this. This is because the most common sizes of greenhouses, such as the 6' x 8' are virtually square so an east to west aspect makes little difference.

It’s sufficient to position any one side of a small or medium sized greenhouse in a south or southwest facing aspect for best exposure to sunlight.

However, don’t worry if this isn’t possible because, even if only the roof catches direct sunlight, this will be sufficient to warm-up your greenhouse considerably.

Good foundations for the greenhouse base

A level, or almost level, site will require less work to achieve a good floor area for the foundations of your greenhouse. The most popular method of making a foundation is to lay flag stones ensuring an overlap of at least 6 inches outside the dimensions of the greenhouse base.

However, fixing your greenhouse direct into the soil is not nearly as secure or strong as bolting the base of the frame to a hard surface.

Most greenhouses are supplied with an aluminium base on which to mount the greenhouse frame.

Choosing a Good Position for your Greenhouse

Shelter from the wind

If your garden is in an exposed position consider the proximity of hedges, walls or fences that will provide some shelter from wind.

All greenhouses, even the very best ones, are vulnerable to strong winds so this is something to bear in mind.

Avoid Trees

To prevent potential damage to your greenhouse, overhanging trees are best avoided if at all possible!

Ease of use and maintenance

When deciding on the position for your greenhouse, also consider how convenient it will be to gain access to it.

If you place it at the end of the Garden, how easy will it be to get to on cold wet days?

Services

Consider how you will get water and if needed electricity to your new greenhouse. Quite a few Greenhouses require some form of electrical supply. Propagotors , heaters.

Visual appearance

This is an important factor for many greenhouse buyers since they want their new greenhouse to blend into their existing garden landscape.

Most greenhouses nowadays come in an attractive Green finish. This blends in to the surrounding gardens and no longer is considered an eyesore.

Now that you have decided on the best position for your greenhouse, consider the following.

Measure your preferred site

A greenhouse is impossible to select and price up until you know the width and length of your site. Remember to leave sufficient space around the perimeter of the greenhouse base, to allow you access for cleaning.

Understanding the standard dimensions of greenhouses

The most important measurement is the width traditional greenhouse styles offer widths in 2 increments e.g. 4, 6, 8 etc. The length of the greenhouse can then be specified to fit into the site you have measured. Again, traditional greenhouses are available in multiples of 2 lengths e.g. 4, 6, 8, etc.

A similar principle applies to lean-to greenhouse styles. Ideal for keeping close to the house.

 

What are the most common greenhouse styles?

Essentially, there are three distinct greenhouse styles available to choose from, Traditional, Lean-to or Octagonal. The traditional or freestanding greenhouse is the UKs most popular style.

Our best selling Free Standing Greenhouse is the 6 X 8 Greenhouse with Polycarbonate and includes a greenhouse base.

An octagonal style of greenhouse makes a delightful garden feature that is still practical for housing your seedlings and plants when optional shelving sections are added. The lean-to style takes advantage of an existing wall, for example a south facing house or garage wall. A big advantage of a lean-to is that the wall itself acts as a storage heater by releasing the stored warmth of the sun into the greenhouse during the night, so creating a good growing environment.

What size of greenhouse do I need?

Assuming space in your garden is not an issue, this largely depends on how much growing you are planning to do, and to a lesser extent, how much storage space you will need inside your greenhouse. However, most gardeners know that the most common complaint about greenhouses is that they are too small!

 

How do I maximise growing capacity?

Assuming space in your garden is not an issue, this largely depends on how much growing you are planning to do, and to a lesser extent,how much storage space you will need inside your greenhouse. However, most gardeners know that the most common complaint about greenhouses is that they are too small!

Growing Capacity

The 6' x 8' Greenhouse is our top selling Greenhouse.

Although this is not classed as a large greenhouse, it provides enough room inside to install an 8 length of staging, with additional shelving above.

This is an ideal working bench with enough space to keep your potted plants. On the opposite side of the 2 pathway there is still space for a row of grow bags for tomatoes or other tall plants and additional shelving.

Green Staging - An Ideal Optional Extra

The 2 Tier Green Heavy Duty Staging Aluminium is an ideal optional extra.

A strong, all aluminium construction.

There is no maintenance required.

This greenhouse accessory is green coated to match the green greenhouse frame and base.

 

Which is the best foundation for drainage, concrete or paving slabs?

You can choose to sit your metal base straight onto either a concrete foundation or one made of paving slabs and then use screws to secure the base of the greenhouse into position. Paving slabs can be an advantage to solid concrete for the foundations because slabs provide natural drainage inside the greenhouse by allowing water to escape through the gaps This natural drainage can be vey benificial. If you put in a solid concrete floor with a membrane and then paint or tile it, it will look very nice, but you may find puddles of water forming on top of the floor for time to time.

No greenhouse is 100% waterproof! Water can come in under the bottom of the base, from watering spills or from an occasional leak and so its very important to allow the water somewhere to escape naturally.

How accurate do the measurements of my foundations need to be?

With the use of paving slabs for your foundation, the accuracy of measurements is not critical. It's important that you make the area of slabs bigger than the footprint of the greenhouse. For example, for a 6by 8 greenhouse, you might slab an area 8by 10. If you wish, this will then allow you to position water butts on a firm foundation either side of your greenhouse.

Greenhouse foundations and bases

A level foundation of paving slabs is ideal for both locating the metal base of your greenhouse and for drainage.

Do I need a metal base? Why not fix my greenhouse straight onto slabs?

Yes you will need a metal base.This is because greenhouses would traditionally sit onto a small brick wall so that the bottom sill of the greenhouse frame would overlap the edge of the brick.

Using a metal base removes the need to build a small brick wall because the greenhouse can now overlap the metal base.You can of course get around this problem if you decide to sit the greenhouse onto a thin piece of wood.

However, by adopting this approach you will not achieve another important benefit of using a metal base it gives you an extra four or even five inches of extra height inside your greenhouse. This can make a big difference.

Coloured Finish

Over the past few years there has been a real change in the greenhouse market. In the old days greenhouses were often considered an eyesore and were hidden at the bottom of the garden! Now, thats all changed with the introduction of powder coating technology which enables coloured finishes to be applied to the bare aluminium greenhouse frame.

Our 3 most popular greenhouses are all Green powdered coated.

How long does powder coating last and will it need re-painting?

No, you will never have to re-paint your greenhouse. All powder coating usually has a life of 15-25 years.

 

Tools

Times have changed since Dad was young. Toolboxes were heavy as were handsaws and block planes. But in this age of reliable, inexpensive power tools and modular building materials, it's time to rethink the traditional toolbox. So here are our picks, the must-haves for the modern household.

 

• Basic Hammer Flat Faced
• Tape Measure
• Adjustable Pliers
• 18v Cordless Drill
• Stud Finder
• Combination Square
• Circular Saw
• Hacksaw
• Utility Knife
• Putty Knife
• Adjustable Wrench
• Wood Chisel
• Screwdriver Set
• Long-Nose Pliers
• Voltage Tester
• Extension Reels
• Clamp Light or Inspection Lamp

 

Basic Hammer

Your Basic Hammer

A Standard 6-ounce claw hammer is ideal.

Remember wood and fibre glass handles absorb shock better than metal handles.

For our full range of Claw Hammers click here

 

Measuring Tape

Though a 3m tape is handy for most household work, you should have a 5m for carpentry and other large-scale projects.

A very popular new tool from Black and Decker is the Auto Tape

With This tape you can extend and retract with the push of a button for one handed operation and ease of use.

Tip from the pros: When you rewind your tape, don't let its tab-end slam into the case; slow it with your thumb. And if your tape blade isn't sliding smoothly, give it a shot of silicone spray.

 

Adjustable Pliers

A Must for all those jobs around the house whether your fixing the kids bike or just loosing a stubborn nut.

For our full range of Adjustable Pliers click here

 

18v Cordless Drill

A toolkit would not be complete without a Cordless drill. They drive super-sharp screws in softwood without predrilled pilot holes. These days, most feature a keyless chuck and an adjustable clutch.

Start your drill bit collection with a set of high-speed steel twist drill bits. And treat yourself to a magnetic driver bit holder, which holds steel screws on the driver tip as you take aim.

For our full range of 18v Cordless Drills here

 

Stud Finder

These high-tech marvels take much, but not all of the guesswork out of finding the studs hidden behind drywall and plaster walls.

It still helps to double check by traditional means, like rapping with your knuckles or measuring from a corner, but this tool will save you a lot of time.

Click here for our range of Stud Finders Stud Finders

 

Combination Square

The square's head, which slides along the length of its 12-inch blade, is shaped to check both 90-degree and 45-degree angles. The tool usually includes a small bubble level for quick checks of horizontal and vertical. The blade is also marked to serve as a fine measuring rule. The head locks anywhere along the blade's length so you can mark a line parallel to a board's edge by sliding the head along the board. When marking lines, slide the combination square to your mark, then complete the line with a sharp pencil or scribe.

Click here for our range of Combination Squares

Circular Saw

For cutting wall studs and wood, most people use a circular saw. Its motor does the work: you just guide the blade along the waste side of the cutting line. And its adjustable base ensures a consistent cutting angletough for the beginner to match with a handsaw. A handsaw is the best answer where there isn't room for a circular saw or when you're far from a power source.

Handy Tip

The number of teeth per inch (termed "points" or TPI) on a handsaw blade determines how fast and smooth the blade cuts. The fewer the teeth the faster but rougher the cut. Your first handsaw should be an 8 or 10 point combination saw.

Click here for our range of Circular Saws Circular Saws

 

 

Utility and Retractable Knife

Because utility knives use razor-sharp replaceable blades, they're a good choice for cutting jobs that would ruin a regular knife blade: scoring plaster, cutting stiff materials such as asphalt or vinyl flooring, cutting insulation etc.

What to look for: A retractable blade permits you to put the tool in your pocket without skewering your clothes or your leg.

Better still; choose a knife that doesn't require a screwdriver for blade changes.

Click here for our range of Utility Knives

 

Hacksaw

Don't use a wood saw to cut metal. You'll destroy its teeth on the first cut. Hacksaws feature replaceable, hardened blades with fine teeth.

Choose a blade whose tooth size permits about three teeth to be in contact with whatever you're cutting. Thinner metal, finer teeth.

What to look for: Hacksaws vary in price from a few Pounds up to £20 or more. Better ones have sturdy frames and use levers rather than wing nuts to tighten the blade.

Some can hold a blade at 45 degrees to facilitate flush cutting.

Handy Tip:

Choosing the right blade makes your work far easier and safer. Look for bimetal blades. For awkward jobs like cutting the mounting bolts off the base of a toilet, you can use a "mini" or "flush-cut" hacksaw, which clamps a hacksaw blade so that it projects straight out from the handle.

Click here for our range of Saws and Hacksaws

 

Putty Knife

Smaller blades such as 1-inch putty knives are used primarily for applying glazing compound (also called window putty) to windows. Worth noting: Quality putty knives and taping knives are springy and flexible and hence should not be used as scrapers. Scrapers are much stiffer.

Click here for our range of Putty Knives and Scrapers

Taping Knives

These knives look similar, but they do different things. The medium-size blades, such as the 6-inch taping knife, spread the initial coats of joint compound over plaster joints and "bed" the tape in it. The 12-inch blade lays the final coats and helps achieve a smooth, flat surface.

Click here for our range of Drywall / Plaster Tools

 

Adjustable Wrench

An adjustable wrench is a household must. You can set its jaws to the size of the nut you need to turn.

A good all-purpose size is a 10-inch wrench. For larger plumbing fittings, you can substitute adjustable pliers, but they'll leave teeth marks on fittings.

Handy Tip:

Always position the wrench so that force is absorbed by the fixed, not the adjustable, jaw.

Click here for our range of Adjustable Wrenches

 

Wood Chisels

A wood chisel fits into places a saw can't reach and works particularly well for mortising hinges into doors. Buy a set of three, with 1/2-inch (12mm), 3/4-inch (20mm) and 1-inch (25mm) wide blades.

Most wood chisels are reasonably sharp when you buy them; take pains to keep them sharp. Cover their cutting edges with a sleeve when you put them away.

Click here for our range of Wood Chisels

Screwdriver Sets

A must for any modern day toolbox! Make sure the set contains a good range of Flat, Philips and pozi heads.

Click here for our range of Screwdriver Sets

 

Long-Nose Pliers

Great for working in tight corners, gripping small items, precision work, cutting wire and bending wire to wrap a terminal.

Click here for our range of Long Nose Pliers

 

Voltage Tester

This inexpensive tool can save your life. Make it the next electrical tool you purchase. Always test every electrical outlet before you begin worki.

Better still; always test your tester on a live circuit before you rely on it to "prove" a dead one.

Click here for our range of Voltage Testers.

 

Extension reels

Whether your first plug-in power tool is a circular saw or just a work lamp, you're going to need an extension cord or lead.

Click here for our range of Extension Leads

 

Clamp Light or Inspection Lamp

Sooner or later, you'll need to shed more light on your work. And the better you can see the safer and more accurate you'll be. Clamp these lights to a ladder, door or tree branch and adjust it to illuminate your project.

Click here for our range of Inspection Lamps

 

How to Lay Cork Floor Tiles & Parquet Flooring?

Nicoline Parquet & Floor Tile Instructions

 

Please Note: The following instructions are to be used as a guide only.

This article is divided into 4 main sections

What you need to do to prepare your floor?

Which adhesive to use?

Laying cork tiles

Laying parquet tiles

 

PREPARATION

Suitable sub-floors on which to lay are un-sealed concrete and nailed plywood or hardboard.

Vinyl and other existing floors should be removed. Concrete floors must be at least 6 months old and have an effective damp proof membrane. It is important that the sub-floor is smooth, level, clean and thoroughly dry.

Open the packs and leave the tiles to acclimatise for 48 hours in warm, dry indoor conditions preferably in the room in which they are to be laid.

 

ADHESIVE

Using Nicoline “High Performance” Cork Adhesive or “High Strength” Parquet Adhesive, proceed in warm dry conditions. Apply the adhesive directly to the sub-floor using the notched spreader supplied.

Do not over apply the adhesive but do give 100% coverage to the sub-floor.

 

CORK

Try a test tile before completing the remainder of the floor to ascertain correct adhesion. If any problems arise then cease laying the floor and seek advice from the manufacturers.

Position the tiles into the adhesive whilst it is still wet. Re-check the tiles after 15 minutes pressing the tiles firmly, including the edges. Remove any excess adhesive using a damp cloth immediately.

 

PARQUET

Try a test tile before completing the remainder of the floor to ascertain correct adhesion.

If any problems arise then cease laying the floor and seek advice from the manufacturers.

Allow the adhesive to dry thoroughly – at least 90mins – in good conditions but considerably longer for poor conditions or if laying onto cold concrete or screeds.

The adhesive will become aggressively tacky to the touch when ready to use.

Lay the tiles onto the adhesive pressing each one firmly into place, especially the corners. Re-check after 1 hour, pressing the tile firmly (especially the corners) and weigh down any lifting edges if necessary.

Remove any excess adhesive using a damp cloth immediately.

Our Best Selling Cork Tiles

Check ouy our full range of Cork Tiles.

Tough, warm and beautiful cork floor tiles. The rich golden texture of these tiles will add warmth and vitality to any room and because they are natural cork they will never go out of fashion and will stay looking good with very little attention.

9 tiles per pack. 1/8" (3mm) thickness. Sizes nominal.

Coverage approx: 0.80sq metre ( 1 sq yard).

 

Choose the right adhesive for the job

We Stock several brands. Nicoline is a well known and trusted brand and recommended for use with Nicoline Floor Tiles

Evo Stik is a well know and trusted brand.

Our new range of Siesta Cork Tiles also has their own adhesive.